Pasion!

Argentina vs. Mexico today!
No Plaza San Martin because of all the rain so instead we went searching all the bars and restaurants in Plaza Serrano in Palermo for a tv. Half of our group went to a Mexican restaurant (AY! Is that even allowed on a day such as today??) And claimed that whenever Argentina scored, the cooks flashed their knives! But unluckily for me and my compadres, an hour before the game started every seat in every bar had a blue and white butt in it! We ended up in an Irish pub of all places, but the atmosphere was purely Argentine!

After the nailbiting, foot stomping, table drumming game that ended 3:1 Argentina, we stepped out onto the wet streets covered in confetti to the tunes of a million different cars all honking to the same tune! When I emerged from my Subte stop on Juramento and Cabildo I was utterly enveloped by this enormous crowd who'd literally run out into the middle of this busy intersection and stopped all traffic to celebrate. Jumping and drumming and dancing and clapping and waving flags! Viejos and chiquitos alike, everyone singing the same fight songs, and shouting the same chants, all with accompanying dance moves and hand gestures! The police even showed up, but instead of breaking up the fun and dispelling the hoards of revellers, they simply diverted the traffic so it could continue! And this was already hours after the game had ended! I haven't checked but I'm pretty sure they're still there!

Now I've celebrated the 4th of July every year since my childhood, with Dad's illegal fireworks show and Mom's famous fruit salad, and yeah we'd sing "God Bless America" and all those traditional things.... but I've never experienced or whitnessed the sheer excitement and passion that the Argentines have for their culture and their country. Politics will always be politics, same with poverty, and injustice, all the divisive issues on our planet. But regardless of the state of their government, their economy, their history, the people are one. There's no Republican or Democrat or man or woman or old or young, NO! The people are all ONE.

I have some awesome video of this phenomena but it won't upload correctly.... so until then
PHOTOS!
http://www.facebook.com/#!/album.php?id=525033822&aid=187909

La Vida Buena!

Ay! My first weekend in the city!


And yesterday was a true Argentine Friday! After class a couple chicas and I went to a little cafe on the street near our school and shared some tea and good conversation cruised a couple of used bookstores, and then I headed home around 5pm. Did some reading of a play script by an Argentine playwright from Cordoba that I bought in the University bookstore (incredibly beautiful writing btw!) and rested up for a night of fun on the town! Franco mi hermano told me all about the best bars and clubs and even helped me call a taxi! They warned us all about how easily the cab drivers can rip off foreigners, but luckily ours was extremely amicable and even gave us a discount on the fare! During the drive, we had a great discussion with him about how if the Uninted States had won their futbol game against Ghana today, and Argentina wins tomorrow, then the U.S. and AG. would have to face off and I would have to face the possibility of defecting citizenship! He got a good hearty laugh out of that prospect though, and unfortunately he was right! No more Copa Mundial for Los Estados.


But we didn't even go out until midnight (early by BA standards!) and went to a cool little bar in Palermo. There were lots of locals there which was great because I definitely didn't come to Argentina to meet party animals from the states I can do that in LA if I really want to! Then aroun 2:00am we walked around the corner to a dance club called Lansky's. Now at that point in the night the only other people who'd arrived were other Americans! The portenos (residents of BA) don't usually roll in till about 3:00 or 4:00am! But when they did arrive, rest assured no chica was without a dance partner!


Let me take this opportunity to describe the Argentine boys. Charming and suave are a couple words that come to mind before aggressive and macho. They were obviously enthralled with all of us American girls and wanted to practice their English about as much as we did Spanish. But boy, how easy would it have been for each of the girls in my group to come home with 3 or 4 novios (boyfriends) after one night?! "I like your eyes. I love your smile. I'm in love with you. I will be your novio tonight. Don't ever leave me chica linda." These guys have their piropos (compliments/catcalls) down! My personal favorite was when I was talking with one guy, and behind his back another was staring at me as intently as if his eyes were microwaves and I was a slice of cold pizza on a paper plate. He then proceeded to type "Sos hermosa" (you are gorgeous) into his cell phone and flashed it at me, assumably to draw my attention away from the current suitor. I mastered the phrase "Lo siento. Solamente quiero bailar." (Sorry! I only came to dance.) And after being rejected, mind you it took each one about 12 tries before giving up, they'd leave and probably won't be able to show their faes near there for the next couple weeks!


We snagged a taxi home around 5:30 and I was safely tucked into my bed by 6:00am, with my self satisfaction and inflated esteem to snuggle with. When I woke this afternoon around 1:00pm to my freshly brewed espresso that Ana always leaves out for me, I didn't know if I should greet my family with "Buenos dias" or "Buenas tardes!" But it didn't matter because they were all so pleased that I'd enjoyed soaking up the specialties of their vivacious city!

This afternoon the Americanos convened, despite the chilly South American rain, at restaurant a couple blocks down my street to watch the U.S. vs Ghana futbol game. Even with the thrilling overtime and climactic moments of hope and despair, the end had been decided from the start. Congratulations to Ghana. I feel unpatriotic for saying it, but the U.S. does not deserve the Copa Mundial. As disappointing as our loss was, I found myself close to tears watching the Ghana players drying in dignified celebration and proudly taking a victory lap precious flag held high. Argentina's match against their good ol' enemigos Mexico is tomorrow and it is promised to be INTENSE! Better get to the Plaza San Martin early!

OH! And last night Sofi and Franco discovered my videos on facebook! There were a couple of me singing and Franco made a big deal saying "MOM! Did you know Kelly sings opera??" Aparently Franco loves opera. I mean he's always either blasting Andrea Boccelli or rocking the Cold Play tunes on his guitar while Sofi's dancing to raggaeton or Lady Gaga, so I don't know why I was surprised! Plus I think the neighbor below us is in a band or something because I'm always hearing drums thundering up from my bedroom floor. I miss my choir and my piano and weekly voice lesson, but I'm glad I'm still in such a musical house!

Always on my toes!

If there are two things that are suffering the brunt of my travels, but undoubtedly becoming stronger as a result, they are my brain power and the balls of my feet!

Yesterday was a difficult day for me. First day of Spanish class reminded me I'm not as much of a know-it-all as I thought I knew! Somedays are Spanish days. That's when the switch is on and the juices are flowing and expressing myself in intelligent conversation is muy facil (very easy)! And then there are English days, when the switch is faulty and the juices have the consistency of molasses and I just can't get myself out of this comprehension rut! That was yesterday.

So today I made a pact to speak completamente en espanol! And when surrounded by the right people, it is totally possible and so rewarding! Traveling on my own with a bunch of strangers, all of us expecting to make tons of friends, is interesting. I really don't wanna hang out with all Americans, and especially some of these Americans who went abroad apparently for the parties only! But I've found the people in my program that I get along with best and enjoy spending time with are the ones who want to speak Spanish all day and go exploring like me. It's minute, I know, but we came here for the same reasons so we must have something, some deeply precious and imperative thing, within us that's in common. Right?

The best part about today though was attending my first tango class!! As part of the orientation, ISA got us all into this suave little milonga in Palermo for lessons tonight. I definitely went out and bought mediaslargas con dibujos (tights with designs) for just this occassion! [Insert shout-out to Diane Machin here!] Of course our instructor was as breathtaking and rico suave as his superb dance moves, so needless to say all the girls were swooning while the guys tried pathetically to put on a facade of bravado and machismo in competition. Now I'm no tango expert, but Mom and I definitely attended at least one Argentine tango class in Oceanside before I left. So as far as my companeros were concerned, I was PRO! After trading many partners, bumping into other flustered couples, stepping on feet, and trying to catch the eye of our rico suave instructor, the smooth tranquil tango music faded away, only to be replaced by bombastic Salsa tunes!!

Now, my Spanish is only so so. I know this, and believe me I struggle with it everyday from the moment I wake up. But DANCE?? Ahora estas hablando mi lengua! (Now, you're speaking my language!) I'm a performer. This is where I thrive. This is why I came to BA! Passing partners up and down the dance floor, being spun and dipped, shaking my hips to the absolute maximum of their range of motion, I completely forgot that couldn't understand the lunfardo (tango slang)! I was communicating! Through rhythms and music and smiles and hands and eye contact. WE WERE COMMUNICATING!

What a victorious night! My feet couldn't be nor have they ever been more sore. It wasn't the dancing that got me though. It was the walking 20 blocks home on cobblestones in cheap heels that did it! I was so proud of figuring out the #15 collectivo (bus) to get there, I didn't think about how to get back! But I found the Subte (subway) easily and made it to the main avenue of Belgrano only to epically fail at finding the #107 collectivo! Perhaps I should explain why the bus system is so confusing. I don't want you all thinking I'm a retard. I mean I went to college people! First of all, when you get on the bus, you tell the driver at which street you want to get off. Then he pushes a button, you put your centavos in the machine and find yourself a seat. If you've made it this far that's half the battle because bus stops in BA are not like those in the States. There are no clearly marked signs. Sometimes its nothing more than a number stuck on a tree or street sign! And even if by some miracle you're waiting in the right place, you still have to flag down the bus driver and jump in as the doors are closing and he's already accelerating. Once on board, you better know exactly when your stop is coming because there's no string to pull to notify the driver, no map showing the route, no announcements overhead, and if you miss that brief few seconds that the bus slows to a single digit speed and flings its doors open for our exit, who knows where you'll end up?! Sometimes the drivers don't stop in the same places or at all there stops on the route. If no one's waiting to get on or needs to get off, why bother right? Factor in asking questions in Spanish without drawing attention to the fact that you're an American with no idea how to get around, and you've got yourself a conundrum!! NOW you understand why I've been walking so much?? Es muy complicado no?

So yes, this city keeps me at attention with constant challenge and exitement, sometimes frustrating, sometimes thrilling, and so far lways rewarding!

Welcomed to a new world...of sports!

If you are not a futbol (ahem... soccer) fan, chances are you do not live in a Latin American country, nor have you ever had the overjoyous occasion to be included in their ritualistic futbol festivities. After today, I am proud and honored to say that I have.

Myself and a couple girlfriends, who I literally met for the first time today, went to the Plaza San Martin in the middle of the city to watch the World Cup match between Greece and Argentina. All day long people were selling memoribilia in the streets like we were in Boston on St. Patrick's Day. The plaza was packed!!! How can I describe this? As squished as tight as sardines? As stuffed as a Chipotle burrito? As overcrowded as the LA school district? No! Imagine the capacity of Qualcomm Stadium corralled into a one acre space on a hill, all peering over each other's colored hats and flags at one pantalla gigante (BIG screen). Bear in mind that Argentines have no concept of personal space!

It was kind of a nerve wracking game stuck at 0-0 for over an hour! But in the last 20 minutes, Argentina pulled off two pretty spectacular goals and the crowd went BALLISTIC! Jumping, dancing, singing, cheering, hugging! There were firecrackers and confetti and drumming! It was something remeniscent of New Years 2000!

Having never been much of sports fan, I gotta say this kind of energy is addicting. Millions of people around the world gather in their street squares together and collectively will their teams to victory. It's more than just a ball and a pitch. Its a communion of spirits! For that brief hour and a half, what binds us together is more important than what separates us. The taxi driver honks at the businessman who high fives the kid next to him, and politicians join hands and sing! If all other human interactions were as effective, as simple, and as pure as a ball and a pitch, what a world this could be!

Dia Tres!

If you know me, then you probably already know this about me. I have a problem with being late everywhere I go! This morning the group was supposed to meet at 8:15am to go to Tigre, a city not too far from Buenos Aires, for the day. For some reason I got it into my head that the meeting time was 8:30am and as we learned yesterday in San Telmo, when we abandoned poor Buck, probably the single most ostentatious American among us with the least Spanish abilities, somewhere in a very crowded marketplace, the bus waits for NO ONE.

Luckily I kept my wits about me and used them to add minutes to my go phone and call Coqui, our ISA advisor on the trip to Tigre. I'd ducked into a little cafe when she called me back, and just as I stepped outside to take her call, who do I run into?? Two companeros of mine who'd also arrived late. We decided instead of trying to catch up to the group we'd stay in the city and do our own thing. My program gives me another opportunity to see Tigre anyway. So we wandered through Belgrano for awhile, through the huge parks with people everywhere walking their dogs, playing futbol, and picnicing. It's still a holiday today so even though not many shops or restaurants were open, many people were out. We walked frm Belgrano to Palermo, the next barrio over, and went to el Jardin Japonese (the Japanese Garden). It was very pretty and peaceful and we got some sushi for lunch. Apparently the chef from Jorge's favorite restaurant was trained at el Jardin Japonese. But still, two meals of sushi in two days does not make me a connoseur. Imagine me trying to order Japanese sushi in Spanish.... just how many cultural norms can I violate in one sentence??

After lunch we went to el Nacional Museo de las Bellas Artes (the National Museum of Fine Arts) and saw some incredible collections. There were Fransisco Goyas and Monets and many classic European paintings and sculptures as well as grafiti art and modern art and photographs. It was so awesome.

Then we realized we were practically in Ricoleta, the next barrio over from Palermo. So we visted la Ferria Ricoleta (the fair or marketplace) and as much as I wanted to shop, I was walking with two guys. **eye roll** They just didn't understand. Anyway, we went into a church from the 1700's during Spanish colonial times, and it was very pretty, but then again I just returned from Italy. I think it'll be awhile before I can look at any church and not compare it to St. Marks and St. Peters basilicas! Then we meandered through el Cementario (the cemetary). But this just isn't any cemetary. It's like a city for the deceased. Not kidding! It's filled to capacity with HUGE mausoleums made of marble and stone and topped with giant statues. Each one is nearly the size of a small chapel! We needed a map to navigate this place! And most of the "residents" are famous and important Argentines, like the timeless Evita herself, whose tomb we made sure to visit!! It was such a gorgeous and peacful place, I didn't even get creeped out by the fact that we were siteseeing amongst the dead. These resting places were built with so much pride and so much care, and they stand as revered family symbols to this day.

We walked all the way back to Belgrano, and thus I was sore and exhausted by the time I made it a casa (home). But tonight I bid the boys goodbye and walked the last few blocks by myself, totalmente segura! (Totally safe!) Every night so far I have lovely little exchanges with the security guard who opens the gate for me. He knows my name and where I live already, but he talks so fast I can barely understand him so I always look like a deer in headlights and probably say the stupidest things to him! Sofi was the only one home. She was doing her English homework at the kitchen table so I joined her and together we watched the news and chatted. We had dinner kinda early, relatively speaking, when Ana came home and they both went to bed because classes and work resume tomorrow morning. Right now? I'm still sittin in the kitchen watching late night soaps. Yes, the acting is just as bad as in the States, pero los actores son tanto mas guapos (but the actors are so much better looking!)!

Tomorrow I'm taking the placement test for my Castellano (the Castillian Spanish they speak down here). Then we'll see just how good I am, compared to how good I think I am! In these 3 days though, I really have learned alot! The most obvious to me, though, is that I'm much closer to fluent when I'm comfortable and confident.

I think thats essential really for any form of communication. What's it called in acting class? Believability? If you don't believe in what you are saying, there's no way you'll be able to convey it to anyone else.

Dia Dos!

It's day 2 and I've officially branched out beyond mi casa and can share a little bit more about this grand city!

This morning (WOAH.....I just caught myself writing in Spanish and didn't realize it.... I suppose that's a good thing!) I survived the bus! There surprisingly no one on it at 9:30am so I didn't look like too much of a fool when I didn't know how to work the coin machine. But I told my bus driver "Mi salida es Ave. Cabildo." just like my family said. And he kindly signaled me when my stop was because he could tell I wasn't from around here. And I got off on Ave. Cabildo in the 4400's.... but the ISA office is in the 800's. So with 15 minutes to spare before my group meeting began, I was about 40 blocks away from where I needed to be. But the weather was nice and it was my first time on the streets of the city, so, without a shred of panic, I just started walking. I may have been 45 minutes late to my meeting but now at least I know my way around Belgrano!
After the info session, during which many scare tactics were employed to encourage responsible behavior among us crazy Americanos, we had empanadas, alfahores (cookie sandwhiches) and took off on a bus tour of the entire city. ES MUY GRANDE. I think what I am going to do is break BA down barrio by barrio and spend a day or a weekend at least doing all there is to do in each section of town, because there is just SO MUCH to do! There's ferias (fairs) and mercados (open-air markets) everywhere. In Boca and San Telmo, the Bohemian centers of town and thus my favorites obviously, there were tons of street artists, musicians, and even tango dancers! In Boca there was a young chiquita, maybe 10 years old, who was dancing a fierce tango with an adult man! I was so impressed and decided then and there that I need to go shopping for zapatos tangos rojos (red tango shoes!)
Also, I about keeled over and died of joy in the Plaza del Mayo today! It is the city center where the most historic and governmental buildings are and as the lot of us unloaded the buses to walk around, we hear chanting and drums emanating from a small alley ahead of us. Then out comes this parade of actors dressed up in revolutionary gear, some in chains, some on stilts, some playing the trombone! They set up a playing space in the middle of the Plaza and proceeded to put on a play about El Dia de Bandera (Flag Day) which is today! Our group had to move on, and I was so mad we couldn't stay to watch the whole thing. But while this magically unfolded all around me, it was all I could do not to stop in the middle of the road, get on my knees, and kiss the cobblestones! THIS IS WHY I CHOSE BUENOS AIRES! RIGHT HERE! For the longest time I couldn't adequatley answer why I wanted South America so badly because I'd only heard just how relevant and cherished the Arts are down here, but I've finally whitnessed firsthand and now I know why I was so drawn here!
But not everything is as pretty as Plaza performances. My bus definitely saw a woman get robbed today in Boca. It was pretty intense and downright frightening to be honest. But it definitely drove home all the warnings we've been getting from our hosts. Luckily I'm way ahead of the game with my go phone, id photocopies, and little travel pouch that I sling over my shoulder and tuck under my jacket. ESTOY SUPERTURISTA!
After the tour today, a group of us went to a little cafe around the corner from the ISA office and shared some wine while watching the Brazil vs. Ivory Coast futbol game. I learned some new names, got some go phone numbers, and tried everything in my power to NOT contribute to our group looking like the obnoxiously loud and tipsy group of Americanos that we were! But then my host mother called me on my phone and I got super excited! I told her where I was and asked when she wanted me home (Claro que mi espanol mejora con vino!) just like a regular daughter would! Needless to say I walked rather then braving another bus!
Its also El Dia del Padre (Father's Day) today so the family and I went out to Jorge's favorite sushi restaurant. He boldly claimed that it was the best in the world, and I must admit that although I am no sushi conosseur myself, it was the best I'd ever had! They invited me to go to their beach house with them next week! I am so excited! They really go above and beyond to make me feel at home and a part of the family. By the end of the day my brain is like a fattened sponge dribbling all the excess information that is beyond its soaking capacity, and I end up looking all dazed and confused and quiet while they gesture wildly and make faces at me to be sure I'm comprehending. They must think I'm an idiot! Esta bien (its ok) because tomorrow we take the Spanish placement exam which will tell us what level of language intensive tutoring we'll be in for the next month. I'm just excited to learn how to speak this gorgeous lanaguage. I'm still goign aroung speaking like an uneducated Mexicano!
But its only day two! With so much time ahead of me, who knows how much I will learn!

Day 1

Well, I arrived safe and sound with a bunch of new ISA friends from various places all over the U.S. We were greeted by our cheerful ISA rep and driven to the Universidad de Belgrano where we met our host families for the first time. Oh boy were each and every one of us nervous! But it turned out needlessly so!



My family, the D'Gianos are inredible! We had a great lunch together, all 6 of us, at the table all talking at once while watching afternoon soaps on tv. They are all so energeti and welcoming, and they treat me like I'm an extra appendage of the family whose been walking around the house with them the whole time! I, on the other hand, was SUPER overwhelmed by the constant Spanish once we got off the airplane. It is so clearly and artfully spoken and I love to listen to it, but getting the translation cogs and gears in my brain to start moving is another story. Earlier today I was so stressed out because I just couldn't think fast enough to string a full sentence together and thus was really quiet in conversation. But that's not me at all! I was so afraid they'd start thinking I was antisocial and shy or even worse, rude or stupid! Throughout the day though, I was able to have really nice one-on-one conversations with Ana and Jorge, both of whom are extremely patient and helpful, and have so many interesting things to talk about! Those calm moments of understanding when I could feel the tangible relaxation of the home were my favorites of the entire day.



Sofi, my host sister is a firecracker! She is a pop singer and reggaeton dancer apparently! She gave us demonstrations of some of her songs at lunch today, AND I've heard her burst out in song at random intervals throughout the day so I KNOW we are going to get along just fine. Santiago, Jorge's son is so sweet! I was a little taken aback when a 13 year old boy opened the car door for me and carried my bloated bag up to the apartment. He'd get in the car and give me a kiss on the cheek accompanied by a "Chau!" but when I asked him how he felt about Leo Messi, Argentina's star futbol player and currently number one in the world, he exclaimed "NO! I don't like futbol!" Good goin Kel, all that soccer study and you found the one kid in Argentina that DOESN'T like futbol. Oh well! Franco has also been really friendly, but I haven't seen much of him today. I'm sure that will change as time goes on.

As you can see, I spent most of my first day getting acquainted with my family. Tomorrow we're going on a tour of the city and I will face my most daunting challenge yet: riding the bus. It will be a true test of character if I can get myself on the right bus and off at the right street, all without breaking any laws, pissing off and locals, or falling victim to one of Buenos Aires's crazy motorists! Now, time to take on the jetlag ; )

Espero que tengo suerte!

Bienvenidos!

Welcome to my Argentine travel blog! Yes, that means I am officially legit. I will be living and studying in Buenos Aires, Argentina from now until November, so if you'd like to keep up with me and follow along, I will be sharing my great South American exploits right here, just for you!

I am studying abroad through International Studies Abroad (ISA) and will be taking Spanish language, tango, and Argentine cultural classes at the University de Belgrano in Buenos Aires. I am living with a beautiful family that came highly reccommended! Ana is the head of the household and she has a boyfriend, a 17 year old daughter, and a 19 year old son who will be my Latin surrogates for the next few months. I am so thrilled to meet them soon!

My plane leaves tomorrow afternoon, and if I were smart I'd be trying to catch some sleep right now, but currently my brains are about as jumbled as the contents of my carryon spread all over my bed. Tonight is the last night I'll spend in America for quite some time. This I realized as I strolled through the Oceanside Harbor today "for the last time," ate my mother's magic potatoes "for the last time," and watched So You Think You Can Dance "for the last time." How morbid?! But could it be that tonight I'm choosing to highlight my "lasts" not in a last ditch effort to cling to all that is American, but maybe to prepare for the vast sea of "firsts" lying ahead of me? I'd love to list off the millions of personal goals I want to achieve with this trip, but somehow that doesn't seem right. Recently I've often found myself asking "What should I expect?" And there is so much that is wrong with that question!! Words like "expect" and "should" beg the assumption that I should have presupposed standards for what is about to unfold for me. Isn't the whole purpose of assimilating into a foreign culture to dispell those exact presuppositions?

So I guess, here's to not knowing! Here's to fudging Spanish vocabulary, and misreading maps, and "What did I just eat?" meals! Here's to new friends, and a new home, and a brand new sense of self. I'm welcoming it all: love, fear, adventure, and that vast and enticing unknown.